Cornering Done Right !

                                                                    PROPER CORNERING - A MORE ADVANCED APPROACH

When learning the basics of cornering, most riders begin with a series of action in a particular order; shut throttle, apply brake or brakes,  downshift and steer into the corner. As we progress, these previously separate inputs begin to overlap one another and sometimes occur simultaneously. This smooths the process and gives us better use of the time we have to execute them.

Rather than first shutting the throttle, then reaching for the brake, then downshifting, then steering, we begin by shifting our body position to the inside just prior to applying the front brake lever while smoothly rolling off the throttle. As soon as we've scrubbed off enough speed we begin blipping the throttle to match engine revs on our downshifts as early in the braking zone as possible. We do this so that as the corner approaches, all of our attention can be focused on precisely setting our corner entrance speed and properly choosing our turn-in point.

As we advance our riding technique and smooth our transitions further, we slowly release brake lever pressure as we approach the turn-in point and trail off our braking as we increase our lean angle into the corner. This allows the front suspension to remain compressed which steepens the effective rake of the chassis geometry, in turn allowing it to turn in quicker, with less effort than with the fork extended. Most importantly, it smoothes the weight transfer from front to rear and minimizes the changes in suspension stroke and chassis geometry. In simpler terms, the fork moves from its fully compressed state at or near the bottom of its stroke under maximum braking, to where it will settle under cornering load,somewhere between 70 to 80 percent of its travel.

This is a lengthy lead in but is necessary to understand the next steps in executing proper cornering. Now that we've steered into the corner and set our lean angle, we arrive at the subject of controlling our cornering arc with the throttle.  One of the most important missed steps in advancing rider skill is getting comfortable using the throttle to control cornering arc while leaned over in a turn. As with all advanced skills, absolute smoothness is a must.  Even with today's incredibly advanced traction control electronics which use GPS systems to allow teams to dial in the percentage of tire slippage on a corner-by-corner basis, the best riders in the world (think Valentino Rossi and  others) use the throttle as a rheostat in infinitely small increments when both opening and closing the throttle. The fact remains however, that the fundamentals of smoothness still apply. Electronics are no substitute for experience and ability.

In the real world , for most riders who ride with their wheels always aligned, the smooth use of the throttle while banked into a corner is an indispensible tool to precisely adjust your line through a corner. Your bike's trajectory  through a corner is primarily determined by two factors: your speed and your lean angle. Increasing your lean angle obviously tightens your cornering line.  Increasing your speed has the opposite effect.To put it another way, once you've set your lean angle you can tighten your line by simply reducing your speed or widen your cornering arc by increasing speed, without having to change your lean angle. Keeping your engine rpm between 60 and 80 percent of redline also enhances its throttle response. Higher rpm's however require more smoothness on the throttle.

As cornering confidence builds even further, riders  focus most of their attention on lean angle, and achieving ever increasing levels of it. This is where things can go very wrong.  When constantly pushing  cornering limits, riders often find themselves in the position of needing to alter their line mid corner, and panic ensues. When we, as riders panic, we tend to do a predictable number of things; we tense up, we target fixate, we slam the throttle shut and we grab the brakes.  All of these actions seriously affect our ability to control the motorcycle and put us in a precarious state. It's better to practice controlling our speed as well as our lean angle going into the corner before panic sets in midstream.

When a rider is comfortable leaning their motorcycles into the corner it becomes important to learn how to vary the throttle position as well.

After steering into the corner and setting your corner speed by trailing off the brakes, there is a point where you need to slightly open the throttle to neutral throttle.  This is the point at which you maintain the desired speed by neither accelerating nor decelerating. If you don't  open the throttle, the bike will continue to slow, and corner in an ever-decreasing arc. , It is this situation--the feeling that the bike is falling into the corner--that triggers the panic reaction that many riders find the most difficult to overcome. The solution is to open the throttle to the point where it both stops the lean angle and increases the speed to widen the cornering arc. Although this sounds simple, our instinctual panic responses are programmed to do the exact opposite, as was mentioned above. By either avoiding panic mode while at the same time increasing our speed and lean angle in small increments, we can keep ourselves out of trouble and in control.  I know it is easier said than done, but in time it does become a much more natural response.

The opposite situation is when you need to tighten your cornering line while you're already at the maximum lean angle limit that your confidence allows. Here is where the need for sublime smoothness on the controls is most needed. The degree of input while rolling off the throttle to tighten your line is merely a few percentage points of the quarter-turn available. Imagine that neutral throttle is 17 percent of the total throttle opening. If you're nearing the physical limitations of the bike chassis, simply shutting the throttle completely could overwhelm the available traction by transferring more load to the  contact patch of the front tire. The tire may not be able to handle these additional forces. In this rare but critical instance you need to have the "feel" to relax the twist grip perhaps as little as two or three (or at most five to seven) percentage points of available throttle angle to tighten your cornering line. This slight reduction of throttle will transfer the bike's weight distribution forward, gently compressing the fork and increasing the front tire's contact patch, both of which will enhance the bike's ability to steer into the corner. These factors, as well as a slight reduction in corner speed all combine to tighten your cornering line. Too much reduction in throttle, however,could cause the fork to compress to the point of compromising cornering clearance or overwhelming the available traction of the front tire.

In a case such as this, delicate application of either the front or rear brake can be used, but that's a different subject to save for another editorial.

The bottom line is that cornering is a delicate balance best executed with a calm, practiced touch. It is learned  in gradual increments along with equal awareness of how lean angle and throttle position affect our ability to adjust cornering lines in those perilous mid-corner moments that life can throw at us.

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I welcome any comments you have regarding this blog.

Ride on!

Josh

Taking Your Motorcycle out of Storage

(re-posted from the March 2011 Newsletter)

It's that time of year again!  All of us are eagerly awaiting the long, sunnier days so we can get back on our bikes and hit the road.  Some of us have already pulled our steeds out of storage and are enjoying the intermittent nice days of March . The "die hards" who have been riding year round undoubtedly welcome the warmer riding weather as much as anyone else. 

Below I have outlined a couple of points which should have been taken care of at the beginning of last season's storage period.  Following that is a brief checklist of things to look for when you take your bike out of storage this year and head out for the great riding season of 2011.

When you stored your motorcycle at the end of last season you knew that storing your bike was not as simple as rolling it into the back of a garage and forgetting about it.  If you wanted an easy start to this year's riding season there are some important steps you should have followed to ensure your motorcycle was ready to roll when you were.

The first and most important step would be the care of your motorcycle battery.  Motorcycle batteries slowly discharge over time. You may have experienced this after your motorcycle sat for only a week or two.  Now imagine what can happen if you left it alone for an entire winter.  (Hope you didn't learn the hard way.)  Your battery would  be dead, and depending on its condition before storage, it might not be able to take a charge again. Avoiding the cost and hassle of buying and installing a new battery in your bike on the first day of the new season is easy.  Keep your motorcycle battery charged!

 Today, unlike in the past, we have battery chargers that offer a low rate of charge only as needed by the battery. These battery chargers shut off when a full charge is reached  to avoid overcharging and damaging the battery. "Trickle chargers," as they are commonly called give you no excuse for not having kept your battery fully charged during the off season.

Fuel deterioration is also a problem when rolling your bike out after a long storage period.  Like batteries discharging, over time fuel will become 'stale' and create a gum and varnish buildup.This is not just in the gas in the tank, but also in the whole fuel system . To avoid hard or impossible starting of your motorcycle due to stale fuel, either removing the old fuel or treating it is a must. Draining a fuel tank is tedious and not much fun, and getting all of the gas out of carburetors (older, non fuel injected) is not much better. Fortunately there are fuel additives available today that will halt the negative effects of aging gas, which are perfect for your stored motorcycle.

Hopefully these things will have been done at the end of last season, and now with the nicer weather almost here your bike should be ready to rock when you are.

If you used Sta-Bil or a comparable fuel stabilizer, your fuel should be in good shape as long as storage has been for a year or less. Regardless, double check this by opening the filler cap and looking inside for gunk or stratification. If the fuel is consistent and clean, you can move to the next step. If not, you're better off draining the tank, fuel lines, and carburetor (if applicable) before running the engine. 

If you didn't spray fogging oil or lubricate the top of the cylinder before storage, you may want to remove the spark plugs and pour two tablespoons of oil into the spark plug ports; this will lubricate the top portion of the cylinder walls before you start up the bike.

Whether or not you drained and changed your engine oil before storage, you will still want to check the oil level before riding. If you didn't do an oil change before storage, now is a good time to consider an oil and filter change, especially since oil degrades when it sits over a period of time.

Motorcycle batteries tend to lose life quickly, especially in cold weather. If you kept your battery trickle charged or hooked up to a tender, it's probably in good shape. Nevertheless, check the leads for corrosion, and make sure they're attached firmly. If applicable, make sure your battery is topped off with distilled water, and if it's not completely charged don't ride until you're confident it will hold a charge and not leave you stranded.

Check your clutch, brake, and coolant levels.  Remember that if brake fluid needs topping off, you'll need to use a new, sealed supply that is the same brand as the fluid already in the system.

If you kept the weight off your motorcycle's wheels and suspension, well done! Most likely you're tires and suspension are in good shape.  You should still thoroughly inspect them however before riding. If your motorcycle rested on a kickstand over the winter, check to make sure there are no unusual stress marks, cracks, or flat spots on the tires. Make sure your tire wear, inflation levels, and general health are ready for the road. Check your chain for slackness or rust spots. clean the chain  and re-oil it with the bike on a stand.

IMPORTANT***  Don't just take off after your thorough inspection. Start the bike and let it idle for a few minutes to get all the fluids circulating.

GET RE-AQUAINTED WITH YOUR BIKE'S ERGONOMICS. Sit on the bike in different positions and get yourself accustomed to the feel of the bike again.

Before you ride off into the sunset, don't forget that the most important part of a motorcycle is you, the operator. If you suspect you're rusty (and there's a good possibility you are), practice riding in an empty parking lot, taking it easy until you're up to speed.
When all is completed, you will have made sure you are ready to roll.  Suit up in all your safety gear, call your buddies and ride on!

Cheers, 

Josh

How to Corner Properly on a Motorcycle

(re-posted from the June 2010 Newsletter)

 

Corners and intersections are the motorcycle versions of coming upon a black diamond run on a ski hill and fearing that your skills are not developed enough to make it to the bottom .

It makes sense to use great care in a sharp turn when riding, especially if it's a blind turn. This is quite obvious, yet it must be foremost in your mind in any cornering situation.

If you are fearful of corners there is probably a good reason. You may not have the knowledge needed to understand how a bike negotiates a corner, or you may not have the skills and training to turn the bike on the line you want, when you want, and how you want.

The best thing you can do is take an  Experienced Rider Course and learn the basics of motorcycle cornering. If you have never taken the basic course, I would recommend this as your starting point. Even though you have lots of miles and experience under your belt, you still may have alot to learn and nowhere is that made more clear than if you have a fear of corners.

  Here is a proven sequence you should apply in every corner you encounter.  There are four words to learn.  Those words are ;    "slow, roll, look, and press." You're going to repeat those words during every corner.  Talk to yourself out there--talk yourself through each corner.

"SLOW"  As you're approaching the corner, you must slow to a suitable entry speed. A suitable entry speed is one that allows you to roll on the throttle and accelerate all the way through the curve. As you slow, you're going to position your bike for the turn. Position it to the outside of the turn. This means for a right turn, you're going to position your bike 2-4 feet from the left side, which is  the centerline of the road. Oncoming traffic may require you to move farther right. For a left turn, position your bike 2-4 feet from the right side, or the edge of the road.

"ROLL".... Once you've set your entry speed, get back on the throttle. You don't have to whack it open, but it needs to be "open"--that is, positive throttle--all the way through the turn. Decelerating or "rolling off" mid-turn destabilizes the bike, reduces traction, and reduces cornering clearance. Smooth, open throttle is what you want. NOTE: You haven't started turning yet! You've only slowed down, then opened the throttle back up.

"LOOK"......  Focus your head and eyes on where your bike is going to be in 2-4 seconds. Your bike will go where you're looking. Look as far through the turn as you can to find the exit. This is the point on the road where the turn is finished and you're going straight again. Since your bike will want to go where you're looking, do not stare down at the ground in front of the front tire. You don't want to go there! You also want to avoid looking at the edge of the road, the ditch, the oncoming traffic, the trees, the gravel shoulder, etc. Stare at those things long enough and guess what? Your bike will go there. Focus on where you want your bike to be in 2-4 seconds. NOTE: YOU STILL HAVEN'T TURNED IN YET.  You're still set up on the outside of the turn and you're following the curve of the road only.

"PRESS"... Press on the handlebar to lean the bike into the turn. This requires countersteering. To lean right, press forward on the RIGHT handlebar (or pull backward on the left handlebar, if that makes more sense.) To lean left, press forward on the LEFT handlebar, or pull back on the right.

This might sound backwards, but it's the only way to steer a motorcycle at speed. Initially, you point the front tire AWAY from the turn. This makes the bike lean into the turn quickly.  Once the bike is leaned over, the front tire naturally points into the turn (right for a right turn, left for a left turn). This backward method of steering is known as "coutersteering".

When you first turn the bike into the corner, you are "aiming" for the inside of the turn. Even though you're starting from the outside, you want to use all the road, therefore you want to be on the opposite side of the road during the middle of the turn. The ideal line through a turn doesn't follow the exact curve of the road. It straightens the turn somewhat. You want to finish the turn on the outside again. Outside-inside-outside.

This is hard to describe without a diagram. Draw yourself a picture of a 90-degree turn in a road. Pick a point on the outside of the turn just before the curve, and pick a point on the outside of the turn just after the curve, and make a little dot at each of those two points. Now, draw the straightest line you can between those two points while still within the edges of the road. See how it brushes the inside of the turn? Notice also that using this line effectively "straightens" the curve, making it safer and easier to negotiate.

One important note. Don't "press" until you have spotted the exit. You don't want to turn too early. Stay on your outside line, following the curve of the road, and keep looking through the turn until you see where the curve ends and the next straight begins. THAT is when you press and initiate the turn. Don't commit to it until you know for sure where you're going!

If this all sounds scary and confusing, that's because it is. It takes years of practice, training, riding experience, and focused learning to get good at this. However, every turn is pretty much exactly the same: SLOW, ROLL, LOOK, and PRESS.  Use that same pattern every time, use the outside-inside-outside path of travel, and use good throttle control and you'll be a corner expert sooner than you think.


Ride On!
Josh

 

Motorcycle Riding in Cold Weather

(re-posted from the December 2009 Newsletter) 

Winter has arrived.  The snow on the ground and the chill in the air tells us if we are going to ride, we need to do some things to make our ride as enjoyable, warm and safe as possible.  I feel almost guilty writing this article as I am away in a warm climate after a successful year at the shop.  I figured if I didn't get away when things slowed down I was going to burn out.  Work still calls though, so I put together the following and I hope it is helpful for you.

I am going to expand on some  topics which were touched upon in one of my previous newsletters. I try my best to educate my customers on "protection" if they don't already have a firm understanding of proper gear fundamentals.

Nothing is worse than being cold on a ride. We all agree on that I am sure. The following shouldn't have to be said, but I will anyway.  Don't road ride in snow or if there is the chance of ice on the road. Riding off road in these conditions is sometimes fun, and alot of people do it.  On the street however, nothing can put you on the ground faster than hitting an ice patch when you least expect it.

When we ride, we don't move around all that much. This, and the cold wind hitting us constantly makes our core temperature drop and it is easy to get cold very quickly. Dressing in cold weather motorcycle gear will help you stay warmer and keep the blood flowing. Keeping your head warm will help keep the rest of your body  warmer, so don't underestimate the importance of keeping  your head well heated. 

To prevent becoming uncomfortably cold, you need cold weather riding gear  You need materials that are windproof , waterproof, and are light enough to allow layering underneath.

Jackets and Pants : 
Let's start from the body and work towards the outside. Long johns, or thermal underwear are hugely important. They keep you warm underneath all the other extra layering.  Because long johns are not overly bulky, they work wonders for body warmth and movement on the bike.  Remember to wear them!   A long sleeved cotton shirt is next .  These work wonders as a protective cold weather layer over the long johns.  From here we move onto a fleece or well insulated sweatshirt or hoody. Remember...... nothing  too bulky!   These  pieces are fantastic and can be found almost everywhere. They are indispensable for keeping the cold out.  Finally, a well insulated textile jacket with a quilted polyester liner will finish off your wind and cold protection.  If the liner is removable , all the better, as this makes the jacket more versatile when the weather warms up and the liner is zipped out. The point here are these three words' layer, layer, layer.

The same principles we just covered for jackets applies to pants.  Make sure the pant has a quilted warm liner which, again, can be removed if you want to use these pants for summer riding. The textile clothing should be made of Cordura which is a ballistic nylon, and should be of a thickness not lower than 600 D to ensure proper abrasion protection.  The zippers on both pants and jackets should be rubber sealed for waterproofing, and the pants should have both a vertical zipper and a Velcro tightening strap at the cuff for proper closure over your riding boot.

Gloves : 
  We've all been there. Fingers freezing, unable to hang onto the handle bars, wincing in agony while desperately looking for the next rest stop to run inside and soak your hands under warm flowing water. Not the ideal riding scenario. To avoid this, look for wind proof and insulated gloves that have a gauntlet to cover the sleeves of your jacket. Leather offers excellent protection if you go down but is not very waterproof if you get caught in the rain.  With that said, there are some great waterproofing products on the market these days for leather which will repel moisture very well, so you may want to experiment with some of these.  One of the best which comes to my mind is a protectant called "Ok Oil".

Textiles with Gore-Tex and Thinsulate insulation provide both warmth and waterproofing. Many of the newer gloves have Kevlar knuckle and finger protection on them to ensure safety if your hands need to touch the asphalt in an unfortunate situation. Many of these gloves come equipped with leather on the palms for added protection.  Leather motorcycle gloves are almost a necessity if it is not raining. I would stay away from big bulky winter "fashion" type gloves and get a good pair of gloves designed for motorcycling. They should have a good lining preferably of Thinsulate for insulation and should be light weight.  A long gauntlet helps for keeping out the wind.

Many people neglect the fact that keeping your neck warm is very important.  One ride on a cold day without neck protection will forever teach you this. There are many simple ways to keep your neck warm. Scarves, dickies,  cotton neck tubes and masks work very well for keeping your neck warm.  Always look for a good fall / winter jacket with a tall collar that covers the whole neck area.  Often, with a quality jacket, this provides enough warmth on its own without having to use the additional neck warmers. Again, look for materials that are windproof and waterproof and that provide insulation.

Leather jackets :  
They're classic, they smell good and make you feel protected. However, without the added protection of a liner to trap the dead air and inhibit the escape of heat they can be quite cold.  Layering works excellent here, as discussed above, because each layer of clothing will trap dead air between them. I personally have found that a very thin windbreaker as a final layer, worn right under a leather jacket works great at keeping the cold air out and the warm air in.  Try one as a final layer !  They can be picked up at the Salvation Army or similar stores for less than ten bucks.

The windproof quality of leather makes it an ideal outer layer for cold rides. You can use the same leather motorcycle apparel you use in midsummer. Leather chaps or pants are also ideal on cool rides. Just remember to insert a thermal liner or additional layers underneath to keep you comfortable. Also,be aware that riding on the back of the bike will be much colder than the front. On the back you are exposed to the wind and don't have the warmth of the engine underneath you.

Heated clothing is the best thing to have hit the market for cold weather riding.The gear is powered and warmed by the battery on your bike, hooking into your bikes electrical system. You can get heated jackets, pants, gloves and even socks for riding. Layering isn't as important if you are all plugged in and have electric warmth circulating around your body.

Boots :
If you are looking for good quality touring motorcycle boots, then you will want to make sure the boots are sealed well.  Most boots are zip ups with a flap under the zipper to prevent any moisture from entering the boot. These boots have an additional leather piece which goes over the zipper and waterproof flap and is usually made with a Velcro closure. They come up high over the ankle to provide support and safety. Check for a good comfortable lining inside and a relatively snug fit. The leather will stretch to the shape of your foot over time.  There should be no seams that may hurt your feet and the boot should not be overly loose. Some will come with reflective material on the outside, which is always a bonus. You want to make sure the boot is resistant to oil, is of course waterproof,  and has a non slip sole .  In the end, a good sturdy motorcycle boot that's waterproof and supports your foot and ankle well is all you need. If you want to get into the high end fancy boots make sure you look them over well for excellent construction.

It's important to cover the topic of womens boots here as well.  Women need to make sure they buy motorcycle boots specifically designed for a woman's feet,  with the features  described above. Wearing men's boots will fit wrong in most cases and make things very uncomfortable. With the number of women riding today, there is a wide variety of boots for women on the market and you should have no trouble getting something that fits and looks good. Passengers on bikes, be it men or women, should follow the same rules here. Don't fool yourself into thinking that because you are only the passenger you don't need proper protective foot wear.  Tearing up your exposed feet on hard asphalt is not an option.


I truly hope this helps those who read it with their cold weather riding gear decisions.  Please feel free to comment with whatever is on your mind.

Cheers, 
Josh

Advice for Passengers on a Motorcycle

(re-posted from the December 2009 Newsletter) 

The pic above pretty much says it all

Taking a passenger on your ride is a fun thing to do.   Being with your significant other or friend makes the ride and the destination that much more enjoyable. But.....as a passenger, there are some things you need to know when riding two up on the back of a bike.

I have seen bikes tip over at a stand still, causing a fair amount of damage for reasons which could easily have been prevented.  Talk about being pissed off.  Nothing is worse than having your bike go down because your passenger didn't warn you that he/she was about to get on and you were not ready for the extra weight. if you are the driver, it's a good idea to point out the following to your passenger at the start of the ride. It also beats an assault charge when you lose your temper. lol. If you are the passenger, read these tips BEFORE you mount your friends bike.

1. Always get on and off the motorcycle from the left side (the side the kickstand is on) by placing your foot on the rear foot peg or floorboard. Swing your right leg over the bike, and sit down. When you always mount the bike from the left hand side, the driver will be able to evenly distribute his or her weight to accommodate your weight on one side of the motorcycle. Switching the side you mount the bike will confuse the driver and throw off his ability to steady the motorcycle. 
2. Hold on to the driver at the waist. Do not hold on at shoulder level which is a common mistake for many new passengers.Some bikes have a strap on the seat or side bars to hold onto. As you get more comfortable as a passenger, you may be tempted to not hold on at all. This should only be an option if the bike has a back rest to lean against.
3. This is probably the most important point, and yet the most difficult for the new passenger to learn. When the driver leans into a turn the passenger usually tries to compensate for the scary feeling of being off center by leaning the other way to keep the bike more upright.  This is NOT the thing to do. You have to lean with the driver in a turn. Your natural impulse will be to lean the opposite way to stay balanced. Leaning with the driver will assist him in navigating the turn effectively. By leaning with the driver you are helping him and yourself much more than you may realize.
4. Do not yank backwards on the driver upon acceleration. Understand that when the bike accelerates the laws of physics will cause your body to move backwards.  The natural tendency is to grab for anything to keep yourself in an upright position.  Unfortunately in this case it will be the driver you yank on. They will not like this surprise feeling and it will throw them off. Try to squeeze your legs against the frame of the bike and lean further forward if necessary to prevent this backward motion. Also, anticipate when your driver will be accelerating and stopping.
5. Stay alert and be the second pair of eyes on the road.  No one wants to be a motor vehicle casualty because of something unexpected on the road.  if you see something such as gravel, bumps , pot holes, animals, water, oil or other vehicles, nudge the driver to make sure he or she has also become aware of the hazard. Pointing with your finger is very effective to signal the possible danger.
6. It is not uncommon to be hit by flying objects such as large insects, rocks, and on occasion birds when you are a passenger on the back of a motorcycle.  Be aware of this and maintain your balance if it happens. Do not shift your weight suddenly for any reason as this will cause a wobble in the bike, distract the driver and potentially result in a serious accident. 
7. Finally, on long rides, a passenger can become very relaxed, especially on the large comfortable touring bikes on the roads today.  Nodding off is a real concern and you should know this as a passenger.  If you feel sleepy let the driver know.  Find a way to keep yourself awake until you can find a place to catch a few z's.           

Be safe, have fun and ride on !
Josh

Choosing a Properly Fitting Motorcycle Helmet

 (re-posted from the August Newsletter)

I wanted to give some information about helmets in this newsletter.  I get a lot of questions regarding helmets and how to fit them properly, so I thought this would be of interest. Even the seasoned pro can learn something new every now and then.

Choosing a proper fitting helmet.

what to do.

  When purchasing a motorcycle helmet it is essential to ensure a proper fit., It is the most important piece of protection we wear when riding.

Not all helmets are made the same.  You may wear a medium from one manufacturer and a large from another. Furthermore, what one manufacturer calls a medium, another may call a large, even though there is the same physical space inside the helmet.

If you are thinking about purchasing a motorcycle helmet now or in the future then keep reading.

Do not take the manufacturers labeled size for granted. This often leads to a second trip to the dealer for another fitting.

I have listed some important steps below to " size up" your head for a well fitting helmet.

The starting point is the measuring of the head.  Heads that seem to be the same size when measured by a tape measure may often not fit the same size motorcycle helmet. Remember, measuring your head is only a starting point. Because of varying head shapes, this step alone does not guarantee a perfect fit.

Use a cloth tape measure and measure the circumference of your head.  The circumference of your head should be measured approximately one inch above the eyebrows in the front , and around the largest part of the back of the head. Take several measurements to make sure you have the largest one.  If you know your hat size you can use this as another way to start determining your motorcycle helmet size.

Select a helmet based on your head measurement and your hat size if you know it.  The tags on helmets usually show the inside diameter size and often the hat size as well.  If you are between two sizes go up to the next largest size for your starting point.

Once the helmet is on your head, do a visual check.  Your eyes should be  in the center of the helmet with the top edge of the liner padding sitting just above the eyebrows.  While wearing the helmet, take a look in the mirror.  Make sure the cheek pads are in contact with the cheeks, "Contact" does not mean touching the cheeks. You want the cheek pads to be pressing quite firmly against the cheeks. At first this may feel awkward, but a snug fit is crucial when buying a helmet.  Just like a tight pair of shoes, the padding will break in in a short space of time and become much more comfortable.  I always look for my cheeks to pucker my lips when I buy a new helmet. The helmet fits quite tight around the cheeks, but I know that this is one of the best ways to get the proper fit.

Another good measuring tactic is to tilt the head back and see if the helmet makes contact with the back of the neck. If it does, is the helmet pushed away causing the helmet to roll down over the eyes in front. This is an indication that the helmet is too loose.  Grab each side of the helmet and try to rotate it from side to side.  Note any movement of skin on the face when doing this, and also the amount of resistance to movement.  Then, move the helmet up and down on the head, again taking note of any skin movement and any resistance to movement.  If, when you did either of these tests there was little or no skin movement, or the helmet moved easily on your head , then the helmet is too large.

  A helmet which fits properly will cause the skin to move as the helmet is moved.  Remember, you are looking for a snug fit here with even pressure around the whole head. This next test is perhaps the most important.  Fasten the chin strap tightly. Reach your arm over the top of the helmet and grab the bottom edge with your fingers.  Hold your head steady and try to "roll" the helmet off your head.  Obviously, if you can roll it off your head, or more that a third of the way out of its natural position, the helmet is too big. I cannot emphasize enough not to be afraid to go snug rather than looser.  The bottom line is to select a helmet as snug as possible around the whole head without being uncomfortable.

  Finally, and this can save you a lot of grief, if you are going to purchase over the internet, only buy from a site that provides a size chart for that particular brand of helmet only.  There is no such thing as a universal small,  medium or large when buying a helmet, so never use a chart which includes all makes of helmets in their sizing.  The size chart should include a head circumference and the corresponding helmet size.  if you have any doubts or reservations, head down to your local dealer and try the helmet on in person for the right fitment before ordering.

  There are more things to consider when buying a new helmet, but the above guidelines gives a good indication as to whether you have a helmet which fits you or not.

Cheers, 

Josh

Proper Braking on a Motorcycle

(re-posted from July 2009 Newsletter)

I am going to write about some braking techniques today, designed for the beginner to intermediate rider.  As time goes on we will be getting into much more advanced riding techniques for the  seasoned "veterans" out there.  This will be coming soon enough. Hope this is as helpful as the last newsletter.
PROPER BRAKING ON A MOTORCYCLE

  Motorcycles have two brakes, as most of us know.  The front brake, located in front of the throttle is operated by the right hand lever on the handlebar. The rear brake is operated by the right foot , and both are needed to stop effectively. I will outline some basic rules about braking which hopefully will make it easier for you to come to a complete stop sooner.

  Use both brakes each time you slow down or stop. If you use only the rear brake, you may never learn how to use the front brake properly when you need it.  Also, if you learn to rely only on the back brake for slowing down, in a panic or urgent situation you will tend to step hard on the back brake pedal locking up the rear wheel which will then send the rear end of the motorcycle into a skid and  put you into a dangerous situation.  Along the same line, if you hammer on the front brake lever, the bike will stop abruptly and the tail end of the motorcycle may very easily raise off the ground, again putting you in a precarious position.  This of course depends on how fast you are travelling. The point is to apply a gentle, even pressure to the front brake lever while also using the back brake, to bring the motorcycle to a stop.

  Many people don't realize that about 80% of the stopping power is delivered from the front brake.  Most new riders instinctively use their right foot to "stomp" on the back brake when fast braking is needed.  This is not proper braking.  Remember to practice  using the front brake along with the back brake.  When used together, the stopping distance is markedly less than using one or the other alone.  Many riders also believe the back brake should be applied first.  This is wrong.  The sooner you apply the front brake the sooner you will slow down.

  I remember many years back learning that the front brake gave by far the most stopping power.  I felt hesitant at first to use the front brake as the feeling was unnatural, having become used to using the back brake to stop. I had visions of the bike stopping suddenly and me being thrown over the handlebars. I began to experiment and  was amazed to see how quickly and effortlessly I came to a stop, compared to using the back brake alone.

  Here is a suggestion for honing your skills at using the front brake.  Find an empty parking lot, start gaining some speed and then apply the front brake slowly and evenly until you get accustomed to the stopping power and feel .  You will probably be surprised at how quickly you stop, and very soon you will begin to rely more on front braking than back braking.  Continue to do this and you will soon be grinning as you have now learned a new, invaluable skill.  Once you do this a few times it becomes very easy to see how much stopping power the front brake has.

  An extremely important tip is this;  complete your braking BEFORE entering a turn whenever possible.  if you need to brake while in a turn, apply both brakes gently as long as the road is not slippery.  When leaning the bike in a turn, you have much less traction available for braking.

  Finally, it is highly recommended that you seek proper training and equipment before riding a motorcycle, as the sport is inherently dangerous and the more skill you acquire, the better your chances of survival are.

Cheers, 

Josh

How to Choose a Motorcycle Jacket

(re-posted from the May 2009 newsletter)

Welcome to the third edition of my newsletter. Today's topic is one which almost everyone of us has had to deal with at one time or another: choosing the right riding jacket for you !
As the owner of Rubber Side Down motorcycle clothing, I get one question asked of me more frequently than any other. The question is this; "Which is better, a textile jacket or a leather jacket?". obviously there is no short answer to this question . Therefore, in the following editorial, I will try to shed some light on this topic in as straightforward a manner as possible. My goal here is to help you with your decision when the time comes for you to buy your next , or first, riding jacket.

When choosing your motorcycle jacket your decision will be almost always be between synthetic or leather.

If you use your bike often, travel at reasonable speeds and live in a hot climate, it would be wise to invest in a textile jacket with some sort of an air flow system. This is a synthetic jacket made of a mesh-type fabric that allows air to penetrate through the jacket and onto the riders body. Most, although not all of these jackets, also have textile, or "cordura" ( a ballistic nylon ) panels on them. In recent years these panels have been designed to cover the mesh when weather dictates. Textile riding jackets usually have good protective armor and offer good crash and slide protection. Cordura is offered in different thicknesses, with the thickest being the most abrasion and tear resistant. The number before the "D", ie. 600 D which is short for "denier" is a unit of measurement which tells the fineness or thickness of the nylon used to construct the jacket. The higher the number, the thicker the ballistic nylon.

In areas where the weather is predominantly warmer, the textile gear is easier to ride in. Leather, however, offers the best protection, is the most abrasion resistant and is overall the safest bet as far as protection is concerned. Keep in mind we are talking about motorcycle leather here. This is generally between 1.1 to 1.4 mm in thickness. Leather also works great when the weather cools down somewhat as leather cuts the wind beautifully . It is a good idea however, to carry a rain suit in your luggage when riding in a leather jacket, as the wind chill factor can be significant and a leather jacket offers less warmth than a full, all season cordura jacket. It is also considerably more difficult to completely waterproof leather riding gear, although it can be done to a significant degree.

For those a little unsure as to which material is is best suited for them, textile vs leather, hopefully the following pros and cons list will help.


Leather jackets

Pros-

• Can last a lifetime if cared for properly.
• The abrasion resistance in a slide far surpasses that of a textile jacket. 
• Are often less expensive than a "high end " synthetic jacket.
• Leather jackets are generally cut to fit tighter than synthetic jackets. The leather is designed to act as a "second skin" when and if one does come off the bike. The looser the leather, the greater the chance of the leather bunching up and catching on the pavement during a fall or a slide. This can throw the rider into a tumble rather than a slide which is ideally what you want in a leather jacket or suit.
• Leather jackets have a history, tradition and style which is hard to beat. Think, Marlon Brando.
• Sportbike leather jackets have very effective soft body armor sewn into, or placed inside a pocket on the jacket itself. Touring and cruiser jackets do not generally have this level of armor.
• Leather jackets can often be worn as a regular jacket when not riding, due to the large variety of available styles.
• Leather jackets do not show dirt nearly as easily as textile.

Cons -

• Leather is usually heavier in weight than their synthetic counterparts.
• It is not nearly as waterproof as a good textile (cordura) jacket, and perhaps not the best choice if most of your riding will be touring, unless you are certain you will not be encountering any wet weather.
• Many leather jackets are fashion jackets and should NEVER be worn for motorcycling. The leather used in these jackets is very thin and will shred easily in a fall. People must understand that all leather is not created equal.
• At first, leather jackets feel heavier and more restrictive than textile jackets. This feeling soon disappears once the jacket is broken in and stretched to conform to the natural body contours of the rider. The leather jacket then becomes extremely comfortable.
• Leather jackets are traditionally shorter in length than textile jackets.
• In cold weather, a leather jacket is generally not as warm as a synthetic jacket with a winter lining. 

Synthetic (Cordura) jackets
Pros

• Often brightly colored with reflective striping. ( this is becoming much more common on leather jackets these days )
• Often100% waterproof, textile jackets are an excellent choice for touring.
• Most synthetic jackets came with a zip out lining to cope with extremes in weather, again making it a good choice for touring. Bear in mind however that quality leather riding jackets often also come with zip out quilted liners. These liners are similar to those found in the textile jackets, although other weather proofing membranes found in textile clothing may be missing in the leather jacket.
• For hot days there are special 'airflow' fabrics such as mesh, that allow the moving air to penetrate through the textile jacket to keep the rider cool.
• Textile jackets are lighter in weight and longer in length.

Cons

• The synthetic materials do not last as long as leather, and the styling becomes dated much sooner. Cordura or textile jackets begin to look "grubby" sooner and the color tends to fade faster than leather.
• The abrasion resistance of textile garments is considerably less than leather, yet they do stand up to abrasion quite well.
• Textile jackets are often more expensive than their leather counterparts.
• The 'airflow' fabric mentioned above offers no waterproofing qualities. Recently, jacket manufacturers have incorporated cordura panels into the jacket which offers the rider the ability to cover up the airflow fabric if the weather turns nasty .
• Cordura jackets are not generally worn as regular clothing, except in extreme weather conditions.
• Cleaning textile jackets can prove to be difficult, as the exterior layer of weather proofing can be damaged. There are, however, some excellent products on the market these days to deal with the waterproofing issue if your jacket is not already fully waterproof. One of these products is called Nickwax.

To sum it all up, the final decision as to what to buy is obviously yours and only you can make it. However, if you consider all the variables above when buying your riding jacket, chances are you will buy a jacket best suited to your own riding needs and be happy with your purchase.

Cheers, 

Josh

Corners with a Decreasing Radius (Without Crashing)

 (This is a re-post of an article from my May 2009 Rubber Side Down Newsletter)

As some of you may or may not know, I was involved in a motorcycle accident a week ago. A friend and I were riding down the Oregon coast and into Northern California. It was a beautiful ride and everything was going great. We were looking forward to riding Highway 36 in California, which is considered by many to be one of the most technical and challenging pieces of pavement in the country. To make a long story short, after 32 years of riding hard and some years of racing, feeling confident in my skills, I went down. I was lucky to have only suffered a broken collar bone, a mild concussion and scrapes and bruises. Being airlifted by helicopter to the hospital was not a very pleasant experience as you can imagine. After all the dust had settled, I began to think about a few things. I decided it would be helpful to write short articles about some of the most important aspects of riding . Most of my writing comes from my own personal experiences of doing what I love to do most. Riding! Some information I get from different and varied sources. I weed out the bad and include what I feel is important to my fellow riders. My goal is to help both new and seasoned riders learn something each and every editorial. Hope you enjoy. 

Josh

Riding Through Decreasing-Radius Corners

At some time or another we all encounter decreasing-radius corners. Simply defined, this is a corner which tightens up the further you get into it. Decreasing radius corners get tricky for one main reason. If you approach the corner as if it were a constant radius, there will be nothing left in "reserve" when the corner tightens up. The challenge increases when the decreasing-radius corner is also a blind corner and the rider does not know what is coming the other way. 

One of the best rules to go by is to never go into a corner at a speed without some reserve which allows you to correct for the unexpected in mid-corner, be it debris on the road, negative camber or a strong decreasing radius. 

It is always extremely important to look through the turn and down the road. In this case there is no exception. If you're on an unfamiliar road, looking right through the corner will alert you to the decreasing radius before it is too late to react. Avoid using the early apex of the turn, as you will then be drifting to the outside of the pavement just as the radius starts to decrease. This is not a good position to be in. Release the brakes before you begin to turn the motorcycle, then hit the throttle to unload the front end as soon as possible. You'll be amazed at what a difference early throttle application makes in the willingness of the bike to arc through the corner. 

The rear brake may be used to slow the bike slightly and tighten the cornering radius of the motorcycle, but it is important that you get familiar with the sensitivity of the rear brake so you do not to lock them up. Do not slam the throttle shut in the middle of a corner. This can cause overloading of the front end resulting in the front end "washing out" . As the corner tightens, increase your lean angle, which should not be a problem since you have left some in reserve as was discussed in the first paragraph. 

Many crashes occur when riders panic and stand the bike up by applying too much front brake while into the corner. The fact is a corner can usually be taken much faster than most people think. 

At the late apex of a decreasing-radius corner, you'll be nearing the inside edge of your lane. Let the bike drift out naturally to the middle of your lane and give it a good amount of throttle to drive it out of the corner, making sure to stay well clear of the center line of the road. 

If you are on a road you don't know, it's most important to ride with reserve. If you enter a corner at full lean angle and then suddenly realize it's beginning to tighten up, it will be too late to correct. The trick is to go into each corner knowing that no matter how tight it gets, you will be able to compensate with the little extra you have kept back. The fun is then making it to the next corner to do it all over again. 

Cheers,

Josh